Mobile version2. The machine turns on, draws water, starts washing and after some time knocks out the RCD in the electrical panel. Obviously, when the heater is turned on. The machine basically worked if you turned it on bypassing the RCD. The heater corroded with the formation of a small through hole in the metal of the heater, as a result of which electricity began to flow into the water, which triggered the RCD. It can be treated by replacing the heating element.
You can check the heating element by measuring the resistance between the contacts, it should be 30-32 Ohms. And there should be no short circuit between the contacts and ground. If everything is so, then the heating element is working, look for a breakdown elsewhere.
3. When filling with water, the machine suddenly turns on the drain and flashes 3 and 5 of the six indicators simultaneously. Damn the pressure switch. For the first time, the hole for the hose from the pressure switch in the housing where the filter was installed was clogged with dirt. It was cured by cleaning this hole with a wire and blowing it directly through the hose from the pressure switch. The second time everything was more difficult. The machine takes in water and threshes it for a long, long time, the tank remains cold or warm. After about 40 minutes, the machine drains the water and flashes the 6th indicator, then 3 and 5 at the same time. The problem may be with the pressure switch. The contacts inside it are burnt, or the pressure switch diaphragm is leaking air.
The logic of the pressure switch is as follows. A plug fits to the contacts of the pressure switch; on one contact there is a thick blue wire and a thin black one, on the middle there are two purple wires, on the third there is a thin white one. The blue one has the mains voltage of 220 volts, the thick purple one goes to one of the heater contacts, the second purple one goes to the latch of the powder compartment, and the white one goes to the control unit. Without water, the pressure switch closes the blue and white wires, as a result of which the machine understands that there is no water in the machine. When water is poured, the white and blue wires open, and the blue and purple wires, on the contrary, close, as a result of which mains voltage is supplied to one of the contacts of the heating element and to the latch of the powder container.
If the contact on the purple wire is burnt, then the heater either does not turn on at all or works poorly intermittently, as a result the water does not really heat up and the machine displays an error with the 6th indicator.
If the diaphragm poisons air, then the machine turns on, starts washing, during the washing process the air leaves the pressure switch, and the contacts to the heater open by themselves, the heating element stops heating, or the blue and white wires close directly during the washing process, the machine thinks that the water has leaked, he urgently turns off the washer and drains the water. And depending on what happened before, it turns on either 6, or 3 and 5 indicators.
You can accurately check whether the pressure switch is or not in one tricky way.
We take a copper insulated wire of sufficient section (current will flow through it to operate an 1850-watt heating element) with stripped ends. Disconnect the pressure switch from the plug. We connect the blue and white wires to the plug. Without water, they must be closed, otherwise the machine will generate an error. We turn on the machine for any washing program. A second or two after the start of water collection, we open the white and blue wires, and close the blue and purple wires. The machine should fill with water, start washing and heat the water until very hot. Then, when the draining begins, you need to have time to open the blue and purple wires, and short-circuit the blue and white wires. The machine will drain the water in several stages. And it will start pouring water again. Then again you need to have time to open the white and close the blue and purple. This way you can do the entire wash manually. If the machine operates in this mode, the problem is with the pressure switch. Feel free to buy a new one.
Although Kulibin can repair the old one. To disassemble it and not break the latches, you need to put a centimeter of water in a saucepan, heat it to a boil and put the pressure switch with the lid into the water. Hold it there for a few seconds. The plastic will soften and the lid can be easily removed by prying it off with a screwdriver or knife.
This will open up access to the contacts, which can be cleaned, and when installing them back, the edges of the diaphragm can be smeared with automotive sealant in the places adjacent to the cover, thereby eliminating the passage of air. This way you can extend the life of the pressure switch for free.
How is the heating element powered?
Let’s start from the door power button.
There are two wires coming from the button - blue and brown.
One line - brown from the button goes to the door latch contact, turns blue, then goes to the pressure switch contact where it turns purple and goes to one contact of the heating element.
Another line - blue from the power button to the contact on control board, then through the heating element relay on the board it goes into the pink wire, which goes to the contact of the emergency thermal switch, which turns off when the temperature exceeds 70 degrees and is located in the bottom of the dishwasher and sticks out between the heating element tubes, from the second contact of the switch there is a purple wire to the second contact TEN.
Something like this.
