PMM Gorenje MGV5511 - error E4. ⇐ Burning

[Fedor]

The first time such an error appeared was about a month ago - I read the instructions - there is water in the pan - contact an authorized service center.
I searched the forums for information - I found recommendations to check for false alarms of the sensor. Remove the side walls and check for the presence or absence of water. I took it off - there is water, less than a millimeter, but apparently enough to trigger. I slightly tilted the car forward, water from the pan flowed through some technological holes. The machine stopped giving an error when turned on. I turned it on with the walls removed, first launched a short program, then a long one... we climbed around, looked, shined flashlights - there were no leaks anywhere (though everything was pretty tight there and nothing was visible, but at least the arrival of water in the pan would have been noticeable) .
The machine is built-in, put in place.
Three days ago the machine ran out of salt, the indicator came on after washing a batch of dishes. I added salt as usual.
The next day I turned it on - error E4.
I again pulled the car out of the niche, removed the walls, tilted it forward at about 2*, a little water leaked out. I start it up and it starts up, and this time at the beginning of work it still leaked a little, but I can’t see where it came from - the water leaked out was very salty, kind of like it comes from a salt tank.
I start it up again - it doesn’t leak. For two days I stood in the middle of the kitchen without walls, washing the dishes several times - no matter what leaked out. They collected it and put it back.
.
Actually, maybe someone came across it, or there are some specialists on the forum, otherwise we still have authorized SCs. Moreover, the malfunction is not permanent.

[Fedor]

Apparently repair specialists do not visit this forum. Or the repair of the Gorenje PMM is a terrible trade secret
I searched the Internet and didn’t find anything concrete.
In short, the continuation of the story.
A week before the new year, the leakage story repeated itself and now it began to leak steadily, but also not too much. Again I removed everything possible from the sides, removed the front trim on the door and another panel under the door from below. I looked at the layout of everything that was installed under the tank, thought about how it could all be serviced if necessary - I came to the conclusion that, just as we usually do everything through "one place", so here - with this model of equipment through the bottom : )
We lifted the car onto two stools - and there it was, a hatch in the bottom, secured with latches, three in front, two on the sides. There is also an eyelet on the front for fixing with a screw, but I didn’t have anything screwed into it.
I carefully released the latches and removed the hatch, also known as the pan. It also contains a water leakage sensor, made in the form of a foam float and a microswitch above it.
Then everything is simple. The leakage site immediately became visible due to traces of dried salt and snotty mud. I didn’t even have to turn on the machine. It was leaking from the water drain pump housing, or more precisely from the junction of the pump with the adjacent part. The pump is attached from the side to a plastic bowl in which a removable mesh filter is installed on top (from the internal compartment of the PMM). It is attached to plastic latches - such as a bayonet mount. Attached two photos. The pump itself and the hatch in the bottom.

The fastening has a slight play, and when the pump housing was rocked within this play, the water remaining in the filter began to leak through the joint more or less.
With little effort by hand, without the use of any tools, the pump is turned counterclockwise and then freely removed from the mounting socket. The rubber O-ring is visible on the pump. Visually and to the touch, it is in normal condition, but apparently due to the existing small play, which I mentioned above, a small groove formed somewhere, which was leaking.
In theory, it was possible to find such a rubber ring, and replace it, but this happened on the morning of December 31 I did it simpler, as it couldn’t have come at a better time, I still had auto sealant for gaskets operating in high-temperature aggressive environments. I smeared it on the joint and adjacent surfaces and gave it half an hour or a little more to harden. Well, a test run - everything is great, not a drop leaks.
I assembled the car and put it in place. Everyone is happy - especially the spouse.
Curtain!
.
Good luck everyone!

[Guest]

Thank you! I wiped the leakage sensor and that’s it! Water flowed across the floor and got there)

[Guest]

Good afternoon Yesterday I encountered the same problem E4!))) I went to pull it out and disassemble it

[Kit_peS]

Good afternoon, can you be more specific about what kind of sealant it is, how and where to apply it? As I understand it, we leave the gasket, apply a layer on it in a circle and put the part back? When you remove the pump, water will flow, remove everything that is afraid of water, I almost flooded my phone (I used it as a flashlight).

[Guest]

The sealant was ABRO blue silicone automotive sealant.
Water will naturally flow out when you remove the pump - where else will it go from the glass. I substituted the basin.
And since the question arose about water leakage, just in case, it is advisable to turn off the water tap at the inlet before all manipulations... AND ALWAYS turn off the machine from the outlet.
I did not remove the rubber ring from the pump, I applied sealant on top of it, plus on the pump on the platform where the latches are located - completely in a circle, and so that during installation the excess was squeezed out.

[Guest]

And I found the same ring for 24 rubles in a rubber goods store and put it back together without sealant. Everything is ok, no leaks.

[Guest]

I wasn’t the only one who had the same thing: all narrow PMMs from the Midea factory (and there are about a dozen brands, including Gorenje) are equipped with the same pump. The point is the elastic band for 30 rubles. I couldn’t find it quickly, so I bought a new pump. The new elastic was noticeably thicker and rounder than the used one, which was thinner and more square in cross-section. I took off the new one and coated it with sealant, put it back on for about 40 minutes
I didn’t pile it up anywhere, I did everything by putting the machine on the floor. And yes, I am a complete, 100% handyman, but after finding the necessary articles and pictures, I managed it myself. I also remember that someone on Drive2 described this problem and solution.

[Guest]

Hi all. Today the E4 error on the PPM light came on. Having found this topic in the forum, I purposefully went looking for a pump. The problem turned out to be the same as the author of the topic. Rubber band on the pump. Tomorrow I’ll find a rubber band or buy some sealant. Thank you very much for the step-by-step guide to action. I hope it helps not only me. By the way, the machine is 3 years old.

[Peter]

Good afternoon. Error e4 also appeared. Please give me the size of the elastic band or a photo. Thank you

[Air Shower]

Hello everyone, I ran into a problem E4, the result of the analysis was that the hose going to the water pump had burst, I’m thinking about replacing it or looking for the same one.

[Compound Machine]

Respect and respect to the author, I did the same and the problem went away!

[UltraGad]

Leaking down the drain is a disease of this platform. And it is not necessarily called Gorenje.
Hansa, Weisgauff, Samsung, Haier, Matsui, Lex, Midea, Flavia... - sorry, but this is still the same X, with variations on the theme. The nameplates and price tags are different.
The rubber band fits from the drain pump of the washing machine.
Sealant also helps a lot, but here it is advisable not to be fanatical

[Zambibek]

Fedor, thank you very much for the manual. I took it apart, everything is the same.

[Ozernik]

And I found the same ring for 24 rubles in a rubber goods store and put it back together without sealant. Everything is ok, no leaks.

Guys, can you tell me the index/partner number or the exact dimensions of the elastic band? Same problem, I want to buy a new one. They say you can just buy it at a rubber goods or auto parts store, but you need to know the exact dimensions. Thank you all in advance for your answer.