doesn't heat water

Post by **care** » 26 Feb 2016, 23:01

Hello everybody! I would like to describe my experience of repairing a Bosch dishwasher with my own hands, maybe it will be useful to someone. After 3 years of operation, the dishwasher produced strange variations of indicator lights and wet dishes at the end of the wash. Because Having never been in a dishwasher, it was decided to call a professional. The master arrived very quickly and with the necessary part in his backpack (pump with heating element in one bottle). The announced amount was shocking... complete assembly/disassembly - 3500 and part 14500!!! It’s good that there was no such amount and I didn’t give anything except 500 rubles for the call and diagnostics. Diagnostics showed a break in the heating element... I started looking for a replacement heating element - in stores it cost about 8,000, I found it on Avito for 5,500. I almost decided to buy it, but I decided to take it off and see if it was possible to solve the problem myself... Disassembly took about half an hour, including taking it out of the kitchen set. All you need is a special star attachment and a soldering iron. To check whether it is really a heating element or a control board, you may also need a tester. On the Internet, almost all heating elements have diagrams with photographs of which contacts to call. And it’s even better to immediately buy a tightening clamp for the rubber water supply pipe, although I put on the original one (it’s difficult to do if you’ve never encountered the fact that there is nothing at hand and you need to do it) and everything is ok.
A pump with a heating element in hand is a single monolithic device assembled with latches. I separated the heating element itself, and bad luck... the heating element is in a plastic casing and it feels like it’s sealed there “tightly.” I’ll make a reservation right away, looking at all the desk numbers I was looking for only heating element for sale separately!!! They are not for sale!!! Only heating element with pump assembled!!! But on the second day, already getting ready to buy a new one, I accidentally pressed harder on the heating element (a piece of tube with a diameter of about 10 cm placed in a plastic casing) and lo and behold, it moved and I took it out of the casing. But because The heating element must be sealed; it is held in the housing by a rubber gasket, access to which is closed by a metal insert in the housing sealed with plastic nails at the factory, and installing the heating element back is impossible without modifying the design. The metal liner protects the case from melting and you can’t just throw it away, you need to put it back in place!!! The studs are picked out, the liner is removed and the groove for the rubber gasket becomes visible.
A detailed inspection of the heating element revealed a burnt-out track from the terminal to the heating element (the principle is the same as in a car window heater). A flattened piece of core into 1.5 squares of copper cable, stripping the burnt area of protective varnish on both sides and soldering it solved all the problems. The heating element “rings”, which means it works.
But immediately a problem arose in assembling the heating element. The protective metal liner should be placed before the heating element and has a slightly larger internal diameter than the external diameter of the heating element. There is a protruding connector on the heating element, which makes it impossible to assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. In general, without hesitation, I cut it in the place where the connector was and installed everything.
Installing the heating element is not very difficult if you immediately put a rubber gasket on it and push it into the groove using a blunt large slotted screwdriver. Inserting the gasket into the groove and then inserting the heating element will not work, under any circumstances!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Be sure to be blunt so as not to damage the rubber!!! Slightly straightening the cut meth. the insert stuck it back. Fits perfectly without any fastenings!!! I didn’t glue it on purpose, so that if I had to repeat the procedure, I wouldn’t be fooled.
8 months the flight was normal, it didn’t break anymore. Savings are obvious if you have the desire and hands.
If you have additional questions, write in a personal message, I will try to help. In connection with the crisis and the rising cost of parts, I think it is relevant

))))))))))))))))))

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 21 May 2016, 11:07

what kind of dishwasher do you have?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 21 Jul 2016, 08:57

A similar problem, the heating element track burned out, but not at the base, but in the middle, it is not watered with anything, not a single FLUX does not take, I tried gluing with conductive adhesives, they bounce off immediately.... I don’t know what to do....

guest · Post by **guest** » 09 Aug 2016, 20:33

Hello. After 1.5 years of operation, the machine gave an error message: no water heating. The service center told me the price for repairs. about the same as yours. The car has been sitting for two months now. I decide to climb into it myself, because it won’t get worse anyway. If I understand correctly from your article, the heating element cannot be replaced with a new one because they are not on sale. What is he like? Maybe something similar can be found. Thank you.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 17 Aug 2016, 18:57

I came across the fact that Siemens and Bosch circulation pumps differ in electrical chips. Although they write everywhere that spare parts are interchangeable, but it turned out not to be so. Who can say anything about this?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 10 Jan 2017, 18:38

Guest: I came across the fact that Siemens and Bosch circulation pumps differ in electrical components. Although they write everywhere that spare parts are interchangeable, but it turned out not to be so. Who can say anything about this?

Not Siemens and Bosch, but different generations of PMM. Previously, chips were made of the same large size, now small for the temperature sensor, large for the heater, for example art. 654575 it immediately comes with chips to remake for the first generation PMM

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 10 Jan 2017, 19:25

swen, I also did the repair of a circulation pump with an integrated water heater, although it wasn’t so bad for me

I’ll describe my experience: PMM BOSCH SMS53M06EP/01, 2010, washes dishes after 5 people. A year ago the pump itself failed. I took it apart and took it apart. I saw that the rotor had a lot of play and when rotating it touched the stator

. It turns out that there are two flimsy carbon-graphite bushings on the rotor shaft, cough, cough... and they work in contact with water from the working cycle of the machine (food residues, etc.) hence the crazy wear and failure of the main part of the dishwasher, the designers should rip their hands off! Ordered fluoroplastic bushings and a groove for the rotor shaft (500 rubles) Assembled and launched the PMM Everything is OK. A year has passed (almost), troubles again, my daughter is complaining. I looked, felt, the machine does not heat the water. Well, I think now it’s definitely a replacement... Ann no, I did it again. I took it off and disassembled it, when inspecting the pump I checked the shaft play - everything is fine, with some effort I took the water heater glass out of the rubber band ( further vn) then, upon visual inspection, I saw a burnout near one of the terminals. Using a sharp knife (carefully), I tore off the textolite coating from the track, tinned the copper using LTI 120 flux and soldered the tinned copper pigtail to the track and to the terminal. Everything rings! Further, unlike swen, I did not take out or cut the meth. insert, and lubricated the rubber band (with any lubricant) and with a small file made a chamfer on the end of the glass, since the end there is initially very sharp and, without these operations, it is really difficult to put the inside in place. Then I installed the glass in the desired position, i.e. the connector is in the right place and tilted - the opposite side of the connector is immediately recessed into the rubber band, and the one opposite, using two thin flat screwdrivers, slightly press the glass, resting the tip of the screwdrivers against the groove with the rubber band (the slot in the plastic casing for the connector allows this to be done) and press from above. Oops, it’s done. Without experience, it took about 5-7 minutes until I got used to it. There is no need to break or cut anything

Assembled - checked, it works. Yes, about the clamp on the pump - it’s easy to remove it with a screwdriver, wedging the eyelet, and before installation, correct everything so that there is a reserve in diameter, and clamp it bluntly with wire cutters or pliers, squeezing the base of the ear. Or just change the clamp

This is how I have already saved twice on the purchase of a circulation pump art 654575, which really costs from 7800 to 11000 rubles. I’m happy. Thank you all for your attention and God bless you with the repairs!!!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 14 Jan 2017, 18:12

Guest: I ordered fluoroplastic bushings and a groove for the rotor shaft

Where did you order it?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 15 Jan 2017, 18:34

Guest: Guest:
Quote source I ordered fluoroplastic bushings and a groove for the rotor shaft
Where did you order?

grooving the shaft and making a bushing can be ordered from any turner with straight arms.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 15 Jan 2017, 18:40

those. is the shaft decreasing?

Dmitriy. · Post by **Dmitriy.** » 20 Feb 2017, 10:10

Good afternoon.
Everything works, except soldering. I can’t tin the track with LTI 120 flux. How did you do that? Maybe you need a special temperature regime?

Dmitriy. · Post by **Dmitriy.** » 20 Feb 2017, 10:23

Good afternoon. I can’t tin the path. How would you do it?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 26 Sep 2017, 19:58

I agree with the last question. Please tell me who managed to solder it, not a single flux takes it

Post by **Cuth** » 26 Oct 2017, 20:37

Good afternoon.
I soldered with active flux for soldering aluminum and lead-free solder. It soldered perfectly.
I had a problem - the track from the block was unsoldered. A friend of mine had a path in the middle that burned down. We soldered them too.
If you have any questions, write.
I filmed everything, but so far the forum does not allow posting links.

Sent after 5 minutes 42 seconds:
Good afternoon. I was able to repair the heating element. I also couldn’t find useful information anywhere, so I outlined all my thoughts and experiences in the video.

Post by **Q-cent** » 08 Mar 2018, 18:59

Please tell me! I bought a new pump with heating element. On the original connector of the pump itself the contacts are marked "123", and on the new one "321". Do I need to swap wires 1 and 3 in the connector?

Johnny · Post by **Johnny** » 24 May 2018, 16:34

The connection of contact No. 2 from the common one for the temperature sensor is critical. The remaining two contacts are legs of 7 kOhm resistors, so changing 321 or 123 is not important.

Post by **Tired** » 15 Jun 2018, 12:48

Good day everyone!
So I once again encountered a problem with the heating element. The machine has been working since 2010 (faithfully, for the benefit of a large family). But alas, everything ends (and, as always, at the wrong time), and even with “precise marketing calculations” (the machine stopped heating water a month after the end of the warranty). Just fun!!! The officials charged an outrageous price tag for the visit/inspection/repair/spare parts (which practically meant buying a new one cheaper). I had to "open up the body" - upon examination I found out that the conductive path at the connector on the heating element had burned out. I soldered it without removing it (I managed to get to it with a long-tip soldering iron). Collected it, launched it, it worked. But the happiness lasted for about a year (after all, the “light soldering” turned out to be rather weak at high temperatures). I took it apart again and soldered it in a similar way but more brutally. Another year without problems. But an additional misfortune happened - the drain did not work, water got into the pan, and the sowing "thermopump" was located very close to the bottom, and after a little "swallowing" of water, corrosion appeared in the lower part of the heating element. Now I have completely disassembled everything (the device is positioned with its paws facing up). It was not possible to find out where the leak came from - everything was dry everywhere, without leaks, and there was "dirty water" on the bottom. I removed the pump and disassembled it (by the way, the heating element can be easily removed from the body if you press it with your fingers in different directions). I saw a corrosion path. But the problem is more vague - both sections of the heater ring normally (the resistance of the sections is 6 Ohms, 10 Ohms and the total is 16 Ohms). But they also ring on the ground contact (and, as a result, on the heater pipe body itself). Apparently the entire insulating layer has rusted through at the point of corrosion. Now I’m thinking about how to repair it - “cut off” the corrosion area (solder the wires in thermal insulation on top) or something else. What thoughts does anyone have? Maybe someone has already treated this kind of breakdown? Maybe someone has an extra heating element like this from disassembly (I would buy it at a reasonable price)?

Post by **Tired** » 16 Jun 2018, 11:52

The result of an attempt to solder everything. The heating element body itself is made of stainless steel, then a layer of heat-resistant dielectric varnish, then a layer of longitudinal nichrome tracks is applied to it, and layers of copper jumpers between sections are applied on top of them (and there are also several copper contact transitions in the middle for precise selection of the section resistance) and copper leads to the contact block, and heat-resistant varnish on top. My attempt to tin the burnt longitudinal strip was unsuccessful. As fluxes I used: aspirin, citric acid, LTI-120, orthophosphoric acid, F-38. All the same result - the solder falls off. But the tracks at the contacts are soldered very easily (since they are made of copper). Verdict - if only the contacts are burnt out, it can be restored very easily. If the thermal tracks themselves are burnt out, then repair is apparently only possible by contact welding (such as with a jewelry laser or something similar). Well, or the heating element itself in this case is simply thrown away. This is the result of my two-day "party".

Does anyone have a "live" used ear heating element for sale? his number is ego30.73400.010

Post by **Tired** » 17 Jun 2018, 09:47

I found out one nuance - the new motor/heating elements (which are supplied as replacements, they now have a large and small connector on the heating element, instead of the old version with a common connector of 7 contacts) have smaller dimensions (both the motor and the heating element and seals...). Therefore, they fit only through the external pipes (reassembling a common product from an old and a new motor in the event of the next breakdown will not work - the caliber is different).

Sent after 1 hour 18 minutes 24 seconds:
And one more thing - it’s better to cut the jumper for selecting resistance (which I wrote about above) and fill it with thermovarnish on top. The manufacturer thus selects the total resistance of the heating element for 220V. But you and I know that in our networks there is also 240V. It turns out that the heating element works to the limit of its capabilities (that’s why they often burn out). And when you remove the jumper, the resistance will increase (by only a couple of ohms) and it will calmly withstand all voltage drops in our networks.

Vitaly · Post by **Vitaly** » 08 Aug 2020, 21:47

The new one does not heat the water

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 14 Nov 2020, 11:51

What resistance should there be at the terminals? The same thing stopped heating, on the contacts with the red wires there are 19 ohms, there is no call to the ground, the sensor is the same 11 ohm on each arm and between 22.

doesn't heat water

doesn't heat water ⇐ Bosch

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